Expedition on Gasherbrum II June 10, 2009
Burgdorf, June 2009
On Sunday we flew to Islamabad.
After long and careful considerations we have decided - despite the quite uncomfortable situation in the Swat Valley - to go to the Karakorum
and start our expedition to Gasherbrum II.
Just back from the United States where my wife Nicole and I could climb by beautiful and warm weather, we soon have to say "Goodbye to the summer"... We go back to winter and we have to get used to cold temperatures and snow.
Our trip to the States was gorgeous. I could - except to one pitch - redpoint on sight the route "Golden Gate”"on the legendary El Capitan in the Yosemite National Parc. El Capitan is 1000 meter high and the highest free standing monolith of granite in the world. The difficulty of the route is 5.13b (US-scale), which corresponds to an 8a. This is motivation enough for the upcoming expedition to Gasherbrum II.
Read more on Climbing.com
Upcoming expedition:
Gasherbrum II (8035m)
Gasherbrum is a remote group of high peaks in the Karakorum, located at the northeast end of the 36-mile Baltoro glacier. The group forms a semi-circle around its own South Gasherbrum Glacier. The highest peak is Gasherbrum I. Three of the Gasherbrum massif's high peaks are over 8,000 meters. Gasherburm I is the world's eleventh highest peak, Broad Peak is the twelfth highest, and Gasherbrum II is the thirteenth highest. They do not lie - like Everest, Lohtse, Makalu or Ama Dablam - in Nepal, but in the sister mountain range of the Himalaja, in Karakorum Pakistan.
Gasherbrum II is an easy peak of 8000 meters in Pakistan. The base camp lies in an incredible wild and deeply amazing world of glaciers. Nearby are summits where alpine history has been written, particularly on K2.
On July 9, 2006 Cédric Hählen, Hans Mitterer and I reached the summit of Gasherbrum II east summit (7772m) over the Magic Line (first ascent).
1. History
Until 1939 today's
Pakistan and so also the moutains range of Karakorum stood under British highness. The Englishmen were the first ones to have mapped the Karakorum.
The mountain became really well-known when it caught the attention of Ludwig Amadeus Sabaudzki, an aristocrat, the Duke of Abruzzi. Mountaineering
was his passion. The expedition reached the Gasherbrum group over the until today not well known north route (China). Swiss G.O. Dyhrenfurth
reached a height of 6250 meters on Gasherbrum II in 1934, followed the Baltoro glaicer from the south (Pakistan). After it was quiet in the
valley until 1956. The first ascent over the southwest and east ridge was achieved by an Austrian expedition under the leadership of F. Moravec.
Gasherbrum II belongs because of its objectively relative safe route to the comfortable peaks of eightthousand meters. During the journey through the valley of Indus you follow first the Karakorum Highway and divert to Skardu. Over the Baltoro glacier you reach the most impressiv range of mountains in the
world. Passing the huge mountains of Masherbrum, Muzthag Tower, Trango Towers, Gasherbrum IV, Broad Peak, K2 and the Corcordia place you follow the right arm of the Baltoro glacier and reach the base camp of Gasherbrum I & II on a height of approx. 5100m.
2. Journey
From Zürich we fly to Islamabad. The journey from Islamabad to the base camp over the 100 kilometer long Baltoro glacier lasts about 1 ½ -2 weeks.
Depending on how long the formalities with the government department and liasion officer will last, we hope to be able to move on on the second or third day. If possible we try to fly directly to Skardu in order to avoid the Karakorum Highway. From Skardu we continue our journey with porters and jeeps to Aksole (3048m). From there we will trek during approx. 7 days to the base camp at 5100 meters.
3. Goal of the expedition
Acclimatisation
The idea of the Gasherbrum II expedition is to reach on a relatively simple way a peak of 8000
meters. I need to know how it feels to stand on a summit of 8000 meters. This is very important for the next expedition in fall and for my
self-confidence. As mentioned before, the peak of Gasherbrum II is a relativ easy moutain to ascend.
Further I would be able to travel already well acclimatised to Nepal.
Of course I also hope that the weather is on my side so that I will be able to reach this goal.
More news are coming, so stay tuned!
All the best and see you soon
Ueli Steck
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