We are very happy to inform you that Ueli Steck and Simon Anthamatten have been awarded with the "Piolets d'Or 2009".

Saturday night the 17th annual event, who brought together during four days mountaineers from all four corners of the earth and which took place from April 23 until April 25, 2009 between Courmayeur (Italy) and Chamonix-Mont Blanc  (France), has come to its end. Ueli Steck und Simon Anthamatten have been awarded with the "Piolets d'Or 2009" because of their great first ascent in the alpin style of Tengkampoche Northface (6500m), Khumbu Valley, Nepal.

Ueli Steck was already nominated for the Piolet d'Or in 2005 for his Khumbu-Express (Nepal):
- Solo first ascent of Cholatse Northface (6640m),
- Solo first ascent of East face of Tawoche (6505m),
- North-west face of Ama Dablam (break off at 5900m, due to bad weather).


Ueli Steck:
"It is a great honour for me to receive the "Piolets d'Or 2009" award. This award is given away from mountaineers who know what alpinism is all about. This price should also be trendsetting. Therefore it is a great confirmation that Simon and I are on the right way. Alpinism is not comparable. First of all it is a matter of personal experience and personal challenge. That's why it is important to be able to follow some rules. With today's modern technique everything is achievable. Every mountain can be climbed. But the mountaineer is not anymore the determining link between success and failure. Personally this is exactly what most matters: that the alpinist is the most important element between success and failure and not primarily the technical means.
Thanks to all my sponsors, which have been supporting me during all these years and who give me the opportunity to realise such idealistic goals.
Thank you also to Simon: this was one of the most beautiful expeditions I could experience.
Although this price was for 2009 I am proud of all my ascents. And we do not have to forget: it's not over yet, it will go on. I am totally taken by my projects and I am trying to follow my projects. And the next one is close than we might think."




The other two winners of the "Piolets d'Or 2009" are:
- First ascent of the South-West face of Kamet (7756m, India).
A mixed Japanese team composed of Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi opened up the unclimbed South-west face of Kamet in alpine style, between 26th September and 7th October 2008.
Name of Route : Samurai Direct. Height of Climb: 1800m. Difficulties declared: mixed M5+, ice 5+.

- New route on the North face of Kalanka (6931m, India).
In September 2008, the Japanese Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato and Kazuki Amano achieved a new route on the North face of Kalanka in alpine style, which had never been ascended in one go in September. Height of Route: 1800m. Difficulty declared: mixed M5.



Walter Bonatti, the probably greatest alpinist of his time, has been awarded with the "Piolets d'Or-Carreer".
Last year the "Piolet d'Or" ground to a halt. Due to the critical view expressed by several former winners of the price the organisers were not able to set up a new concept on time. But the organisers took this criticism very seriously. They put together new rules and a new definition of the award. For the first time the AAJ is officially supporting the Piolets d'Or, in keeping with the new spirit of promoting a taste for adventure, a desire for exploration and the art of climbing summits, rather than the spirit of competition.
The purpose of the Piolets d'or is to introduce the big climbs of the year achieved throughout the mountains ranges of the world. Its aim is to celebrate the taste for adventure and the desire for exploration in the art of climbing summits.


It is a celebration of Mountaineering. The spirit of the Piolet d'Or finds its inspiration in the rich history of mountaineering. It is about celebrating the spirit of a rope party of sharing and solidarity, by promoting the beauty of an individual or collective act. In modern alpinism, the style and the means used is more important than the accomplishment of an objective. It Is not any more about succeeding at all cost, using financial tricks, techniques (oxygen, fixed ropes, altitude carriers, drugs…) or massive human means (Sherpa, altitude carriers). The Piolets d'Or give a value to everyone's imagination in the research of innovative itineraries, encourages saving all means, and building on the experience in the process.


Criteria for assessment of performances
The climbs were estimated without any discrimination of origin, on the basis of several criteria studied separately as well as a whole:

  • Elegance of the style
  • Spirit of exploration: originality of the itinerary and/or of the summit, creativity, innovation
  • Involvement and autonomy
  • High technical level
  • Pertinence of the itinerary considering the obvious dangers
  • Saving of means
  • Transparency in the used means
  • Respect of men, partners, and members of other rope parties, carriers and local persons involved
  • Respect of the environment
  • Respect of future generations of mountaineers by leaving them the possibility to live the same adventures




The members of the Jury were all personalities in the world of mountaineering.
Renowned mountaineers and journalists, they are informed and impassioned.

  • Doug Scott (GB) president of the jury – Alpinist
  • Dario Rodriguez (Spain) – journalist - Desnivel
  • Dodo Kopold (Slovakia) – Mountain Climber
  • Jim Donini (USA) – Mountain Climber
  • Peter Habeler (Austria) – Mountain Climber
  • Yong ImDuck (Korea) - Journalist



Please find more information about the award under www.pioletsdor.com
Text : Patricia Bamert - Office Ueli Steck